Carpets are a fascinating and useful thing. Weaving in general, possibly from various materials, the whiter weaving rugs. The originality and uniqueness of the finished rug does not always depend on the weaving material. Indeed, for the manufacture of a rug, you can use various cords, ropes, twine, threads. The most popular woven rug is a rug made of multi-colored strips of fabric (maybe not even new).
Traditionally, and everyone knows grandmother's rag rugs. This rug is woven from the same rag strips as in grandmother's rugs.
To weave a rug, we cut the fabric into strips of the same width.
We start weaving with a strong thread, make a ring
We braid a ring of thread with a strip of fabric. Hold one end of the strip with your finger, and pin to the other end of the strip with a safety pin. With a pin, it is more convenient to thread the fabric into the loop. Loops are formed on a ring of thread.
Weave several loops (6-8) on a thread ring. Now we tie the thread, we get the first row of a wicker rug.
We continue to weave the second row on the loops of the first. Gradually adding additional loops (for expansion) to make the rug even. If the fabric strip ends, you need to extend it: the easiest way is to tie the next strip.
It is convenient to weave a rug on a table, that is, on a plane.
We will need 2 pieces of fabric (any one that is comfortable to work with, you can choose a prettier fabric for the lining) of the same shape and size, depending on the size and shape of the future cosmetic bag (or bag, or wallet). Lightning. The length of one of the sides = the length of the zipper that we will insert. And you will need ribbons cut according to the sides of the fabric. It is better to cut tapes with a small margin - +5 mm. (I didn’t have enough brown and beige lurex ribbons, so I combined them with beige ribbons without lurex).
We work with one piece of fabric, the second is postponed. We fix the ribbons from one end along the 2 sides of the base fabric, which make up a right angle.
We start to weave.
Weaving option 1 - let's call it "Chess". He is the simplest. 
The tape from the vertical row is intertwined with the tapes from the horizontal row as follows: the tape from the vertical row passes once OVER, once UNDER the ribbons of the horizontal row, alternating one at a time.
The next, second tape from the vertical row is intertwined with the tapes from the horizontal row, now vice versa - first UNDER, and then OVER the tapes of the horizontal row, also alternating one at a time.
The next, third tape from the vertical row is interlaced in the same way as the first. The fourth is like the second. And so, alternating, weave until all the ribbons are intertwined.
In the process of work, it is necessary to compact the interlaced rows, either holding the interlaced ribbons with one hand, and pulling up the non-interlaced, horizontal ones with the other. Or, with one palm, holding the unbound ends of the ribbons, and with the fingers of the other, shifting the twisted ends, compacting them.
It is desirable to fix the ends of already interwoven tapes, otherwise they will spread.
It's already half done.
And now all the ribbons are intertwined and their ends are fixed around the perimeter. (Ribbons are attached to the base fabric only along the perimeter).
We cut off the uneven ends of the tapes.
What we got, we fold in half with ribbons inside. Sew on both sides. Better with your hands, so as not to flash the ribbons running parallel to the stitching.
We just sewed two sides. But in general, at this stage, walls of any shape - round, square, etc. can be inserted (sewn) on both sides. Then we get a voluminous cosmetic bag, bag, wallet. (As I did in a napkin holder, for example). The sides can also be of interlaced ribbons, or simply a piece of fabric that matches the ribbons or a contrasting color.
We twist.
We take the second piece of fabric - it will serve as a lining for us. We sew on both sides, preferably grabbing a few extra millimeters into the seam so that the lining is slightly smaller than the base of the cosmetic bag and so that it does not gather inside.
Without twisting, insert the lining into the main part.
At this stage, some dense but elastic material can be inserted between the lining and the main part - for example, very dense polyethylene - to keep our thing in shape. But she will keep her shape anyway due to interlaced ribbons - they do not allow the cosmetic bag to be very soft.
We bend the raw edges into which the zipper will be sewn inward to each other (ribbons to the lining, lining to the ribbons), fasten with pins.
This I tried to collect the resulting bag. So that's good too. But we're moving on.
We sew a zipper. Better with your hands, carefully, so that the threads are not visible from the outside, or at least they would not spoil the overall look, but inside they would look neat.
We hide the edges of the zipper inside.
And here's what we got:
If necessary, the lining can be sewn to the base in the corners so that it does not turn out.
I didn't choose the shape very well. It was necessary to make a smaller length, a larger width. Okay, this is just an example.
If you sew on a long handle or 2 short ones, you get a handbag, if you make it 2 times shorter (across), you get a nice wallet, you can decorate it with bows, as I decorated the napkin holder, or something else. And on the inner lining, you can still sew a small pocket for a mobile phone or for keys, if it is a bag.
Now consider 2 more options for weaving.
Option 2 - let's call it "Herringbone" (see Napkin Holder for an example of weaving).
In the same way as in Option 1 ("Chessboard"), alternating we lay the tape UNDER and ABOVE the rows, only capturing not 1 row, but 2 each.
We begin to weave the second tape, the pattern shifts one row: 1 OVER, 2 UNDER, 2 OVER, 2 UNDER ... and so on until the end of the row, alternating by 2.
We lay the first tape, alternating 1 time OVER the side, 2 times UNDER the side, 1 OVER, 2 UNDER. And so on - 1-2-1-2-1-2...
We weave the second tape, shifting the pattern by 1 row (see Weaving the farthest, first tape from the second row): 2 UNDER, 1 OVER, 2 UNDER, 1 OVER. And so on until the end of the row, alternating "-1-2-1-2-1 ...
We weave the third tape, again shifting the pattern by 1 row (see Weaving the previous, second tape from the second row): 1 UNDER, 1 OVER, 2 UNDER, 1 OVER, 2 UNDER, 1 OVER - and so on until the end of the row, alternating 1- 2-1-2-1-2...
Each time the weaving changes only in the first row, because. the drawing moves.
Further always according to the scheme.
The fourth ribbon repeats the weaving of the first: 1 OVER, 2 UNDER, 1 OVER, 2 UNDER - and so on until the end of the row. Accordingly, the fifth ribbon repeats the weaving of the second, the sixth - the third - and so on until the end.
In general, you can use ribbons of the same color (it also turns out very nicely) or vice versa, combine not 2, but more colors, making patterns. Or you can combine narrow ribbons with wide ones, it will also be beautiful.
I thought that this is how you can make a hat and decorate clothes - a tunic, for example (twist ribbons on separate strips of fabric, and then sew on). Well, that's enough fantasy.
It would seem, well, how can an ordinary small rug change the interior? But it turns out that it can become not only useful, but also a bright, interesting detail in interior design. Of course, you can buy it in the store, the good thing is that now there are rugs for every taste and color. But think how nice it will be when you make it yourself, especially since such a rug can be easily made from old things, for example: threads, fabrics, wine corks, belts, and much more. All you need is to know step by step instructions, stock up on the right materials and patience.
Making a rug out of belts is very easy.
For this you will need:
Pre-make the belts the same length by cutting off the buckle. Make holes along the edges of the straps at a distance of about 2-3 cm from each other and 0.5 cm from the edge. Sew them together using hemp thin rope. The order of pulling the rope is arbitrary, you can sew along the belts, across, cross to cross between the holes. Metal staples instead of rope will also look very stylish.
Required material:
1. Cut fabrics into small strips
2. Using tweezers or a hook, begin to poke the strips through the holes.
3. Tie all fabric strips in a simple knot.
Required material:
1. Cut your towels into several strips. In this example, each strip is about 3 - 4 cm wide.
For convenience, you can fold each towel in half, cut into 2 halves. Fold each half in half again and cut into fold lines, etc. It is desirable that all towels are approximately the same size.
2. Put together 3 strips of different colors and secure them with threads (sew the ends). Start weaving a “pigtail” from these strips. After finishing weaving, stitch the ends again.
3. Make several of these "pigtails" and then connect them into one long strip with a needle and thread (or a sewing machine).
4. Start rolling your long strip into a spiral, securing it with thick thread.
5. Fasten the entire structure and turn it over so that the seams are on the bottom.
Your rug is ready!
Wine bottle corks are a great material for a variety of crafts for the home and garden. One useful option is to make your own cork rug. Cork bark practically does not absorb moisture and bacteria do not multiply in it, which is why cork is great for rooms with high humidity, that is, for the bathroom. And walking on a cork rug is not only very pleasant, but also useful!
In order to make a small rug, you will need:
1. Gather and prepare corks. If you do not have the required quantity, then corks can be bought in online stores. Wash them thoroughly in warm soapy water. To remove red wine stains, soak corks in a bleach solution and leave them overnight. Then rinse well and leave to dry.
2. Cut each cork lengthwise into two pieces. Use a cutting board and a sharp knife. If the cuts are very uneven, smooth the edges with sandpaper. For convenience and safety, it is better to cut the cork not on its side, but by placing it in a vertical position.
3. Lay the corks cut-side down on the table as they will be located on the rug, determine the size of the future rug. Then cut out the base of the desired size from the rubber material. You can come up with a pattern yourself, it can be a checkerboard, even rows, zigzags.
4. Start gluing the corks to the base with an adhesive suitable for gluing such surfaces. First glue the corks around the perimeter, then moving towards the center. Remove excess glue immediately with a cloth.
The cork rug should dry completely. To make it completely waterproof, you can treat the surface with a sealant. If you will use a cork rug in the bathroom, it is advisable to dry it in the sun at least once a month for prevention.
Necessary material for making your own hands:
1. Choose the size of the carpet and prepare the right size canvas.
2. Prepare long strips of fabric. Each strip should be about 6-7 cm longer than the main part of the carpet.
3. Prepare several bunches of 3 strips and start weaving a “pigtail”. You need several blanks, then to combine them into one carpet. For convenience, secure the ends of each piece with duct tape. Do not weave to the end - leave some fabric unwoven.
4. Apply glue to a thick canvas. No need to skimp on glue.
5. Carefully lay the blanks on the canvas so that they stick.
6. Connect all the blanks together with a needle and thread.
7. Remove the adhesive tape from the ends. Trim the ends so they are even.
Carpet is ready!
Required material:
1. Wrap the yarn around your fingers (the more you wrap, the thicker the pom-pom will be).
2. Carefully remove the wound thread from your fingers. Prepare another short thread - about 20 cm long - and tie it around the wound thread (in the middle).
3. Cut off the ends with sharp scissors. Cut off the extra parts with scissors to get a neat round pom-pom. But do not cut the thread with which you tied the pompom, you will still need it.
4. Make enough pom poms to cover the bath mat. After that, start threading through the holes and tying it to the rug, thereby attaching the pompoms to the carpet. Pompoms should be close to each other.
5. When you have tied all the pompoms to the carpet, you can cut off the ends of the threads.
Do-it-yourself pom-pom rug is ready!
To make this white and blue pom-pom rug, you will need:
1. Make pom-poms in different colors to create a smooth gradient color transition. You can make a plain rug or lay out a specific pattern. You can also play with the size of the pompoms, using large, smaller and very small ones. To do this, look here, what is the best way to make pompoms of different sizes.
2. Now tie each pom pom to the net, following the color scheme. Try not to see the canvas between the pompoms.
If desired, reverse side rugs with knots can be covered with fabric or knitting so that the pom-pom rug is beautiful from all sides, even from the inside. If you could not find a suitable base - mesh - it does not matter, pompoms can simply be sewn to any fabric.
Old knitted T-shirts are actively used by craftswomen for various crafts, in particular, the idea of making rugs out of them is very popular.
Necessary materials:
The size of the mat depends on the size of the selected hoop, you can take both the daughter's gymnastic hoop and the large slimming hoop. The technology of weaving is very simple, even a child can handle it by making a round rug on a hoop in his room.
Cut T-shirts or other old outerwear into strips of equal width, from one side seam to the other, so that you get rings. Put each strip on a hoop: first a vertical line, then a horizontal one, and then divide each sector into equal parts with a strip of a T-shirt.
Important! The strips of fabric should not be too tight, otherwise the finished rug will wrinkle and won't hold its shape. Ideally, the T-shirt strip should fit almost freely over the hoop, with minimal fabric stretch.
It's likely that if your hoop is larger than your T-shirt strip, it's too tight or you're using ropes at all. In this case, simply wrap the hoop with a cloth or rope and tie a knot.
Try to make sure that all the lines of the base intersect at the center point. We start weaving the rug from the center. Take a strip of a T-shirt, fasten it with a loop to one of the lines - the bases and pass it under and over the longitudinal lines.
When the strip ends, tie another T-shirt ring to it, hide the knot under the previous row. Continue weaving in the same way, alternating pulling the strip under and over the longitudinal lines. Try to keep each circle tightly pressed against the previous one, avoiding large spaces and holes between them. After you have finished weaving, cut off the ends of the loops with scissors and tie them in a knot.
Sometimes at night you want to go to the toilet, go to the kitchen to eat, drink a glass of water or prepare a bottle of formula for the baby, so you have to get up and go out of the bedroom. In the dark, and even half asleep, there is a risk of stumbling upon something, and it is not always possible to turn on the overhead light so as not to wake up other family members. For such cases, LED floor lighting in the rug will be an interesting and useful solution.
Craftswoman Johanna Hyrkas came up with the brilliant idea of using an LED strip as an illuminating sign for the way out of the bedroom. The tape is twisted in a spiral, located inside a round rug woven from an ordinary rope, and a long tail leads out of the room. Soft cozy light spills over the floor, not interfering with sleep.
This rug with LED lights can serve as a night light in a child's room. In addition, a strip of rug can be laid along the walls and lead to a toilet or kitchen. For such purposes, it is better to use a sealed closed LED strip. You can make a rug with your own hands, using a large crochet hook or braiding a ribbon with thick yarn or a rope with your fingers. Of course, there are expensive models of LED floor lighting with a light power regulator. But often a homemade option is a great budget solution, as in this case.
The concept of using garments after they have been worn out for other purposes is far from new. For decades, women have been making patchwork rugs and quilts out of old things. In the same way, you can make a do-it-yourself carpet from jeans labels. The only problem is to find enough labels, because even a small rug will need at least 50 pieces.
To make such carpets with your own hands, it is better to sew labels on some kind of fabric, even thin. Labels sewn on top of each other will give the carpet the necessary density. Use a sewing machine to work, as manually sewing on each label is a very laborious task. Sew along the perimeter of the label, where it was sewn to the jeans. You can choose the pattern yourself - the correct even grid, herringbone, spiral for a round carpet, but labels in a slightly wrong order, sewn on top of each other, look the most spectacular.
Required material:
1. Lay out 5 strips of different colors in the order you want them to look on the future carpet.
2. Next to the 5 laid out strips, put 5 more strips in a mirror image.
3. Take the first strip, in this case pink, and tie it as shown in the image. First, bend the fabric so that the number 4 is formed.
4. Continue tying the pink stripe around the rest of the stripes until you reach the middle.
5. Start doing the same on the opposite side, tying another pink strip around the remaining 4 strips. Start also with the number 4, but in a mirror image.
6. When the two pink stripes meet in the middle, tie them together.
7. Repeat the same with the subsequent, remaining strips. Choose your rug length.
8. Start another rug, choosing the same colors. After that, connect both rugs with a thread and a needle.
Advice: If you wish, you can make one or more similar rugs, which can then be sewn into one large carpet.
9. Excess parts can be cut off, and the ends fastened with a thread so that they do not spread.
This bath mat is handmade
The most important thing in making a sea rug is to get sea pebbles. They can be collected on the beach during your trip to the sea, or perhaps you live near a pebble beach, such stones can also be found near rivers, or in a hardware store.
To make a rug with your own hands, we need:
If there is a texture pattern on the front side of the rubber mat, it is best to turn it over and start working on the smooth side. In order not to stain anything with silicone, lay the prepared film.
Now compactly and harmoniously lay out the sea stones on the surface of the rug in order to make sure that you have enough pebbles and outline how they will lie. This may seem like a puzzle to you, so please be patient!
After you have laid out the stones as you like, you can start gluing them. This procedure must be started from one corner, taking one stone at a time, squeezing a drop of silicone sealant onto the back of the stone and placing it back on the mat. Hold it down for a few seconds and repeat with the rest of the stones.
The instructions for silicone say that it will dry for 3 hours, however, before using the mat, it is better to wait 24 hours, this will make it stronger.
When you make such a wonderful bath rug with your own hands, you will bring a piece of nature into your bathroom and you will remember your favorite beach trips!
Weaving from strips of fabric arose as a way to dispose of unnecessary things, they were not always neatly, but as economically as possible, cut into strips, which served as a substitute for yarn in the manufacture of rugs. There was a very practical reason for such savings: most dwellings in those days were not heated, and any covering that separated from the cold stone or earth floor made it possible to make it a little warmer. Most of the works that have come down to us from those times were made on looms or frames with a "simple braid" or marine pattern, which was described. A little later, when there was more material, the famous "grandmother's" rug appeared from braids sewn in a circle or oval, woven from three strips of fabric, about the modern version of which you can read.
Modern weaving from stripes is fundamentally different from the historical one in that a new fabric is taken for work, from which strips are cut, which was previously unthinkable. Until recently, it was customary to use strips of fabric only as a weft, that is, they were weaving, and for the warp they preferred to take simple cotton threads, which were able to give strength to such far from easy work.
Weaving from strips of fabric has changed a lot in appearance and in essence since the second half of the twentieth century, when designers and artists ceased to consider it shameful to create something of their own, using the ideas and techniques of practical creations. ordinary people. It was then that decorative works appeared, created only from strips of fabric. Initially, such work did not need increased strength, since it was supposed to be duplicated with an adhesive cloth in order to firmly fix the pattern of stripes.
Simple braids of multi-colored patches began to decorate the walls of the premises, bags and shoes were sewn from them, but not everyone liked the inevitable negligence of the edges of the strips of fabric, which over time could become even more "shaggy".
At the end of the twentieth century, Japanese craftsmen (alas, I don’t know their names) came up with the idea to use the technique of mosaic weaving when working with strips of fabric that were not only cut in advance into segments of the desired width, but also sewn along the edge along the entire length face to face and then turned right side out and ironed.
After such pre-treatment of the strips of fabric, the work immediately lost even a hint of carelessness, which made it possible to create more complex patterns by interlacing the strips of fabric in three directions. It is noteworthy that Japanese craftsmen rarely select monochromatic fabrics for their works, preferring to work with fine jacquard patterns.
Such preferences in choosing a pattern make the work very similar to a mosaic. Compared to other patchwork techniques, such as the much more famous patchwork, weaving strips of fabric is much easier than sewing hundreds of patches into a single piece. However, works made with mosaic weaving are still a rarity in the world of needlework.
It is believed that the reason for this is the lack of diagrams, because not every picture of the finished work will make it possible to understand how it was created. In fairness, it should be said that the most complex of them are recognized as copyrights and their copying, to put it mildly, is not welcome, but even the simplest variants of mosaic weaving allow you to create works with an expressive three-dimensional pattern using fairly simple means and without complex and expensive tools. The most famous of them are in the figures on the left.
